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Installing Dynamo Joe's Clutch Kit

09/19/2006

Installing Dynamo Joe's Clutch Kit

 

 

 

To begin with - installing Joey's the clutch kit is not as hard as you think it might be. There are traps that can be easily avoided. I'll tell you what my experience has been and my take on some of the pitfalls. If this is your first time, plan on about 2 - 3 hours to do the job. It'll be a good experience for you to get into a clutch and see what makes it tic. Knowing your clutch and how to adjust it will dramatically increase the response and power of your sled.

 

To begin with, you'll need proper clutch tools. You don't have to spend a fortune here. It's very handy to have the three "button retainers" which you can pick up at your dealer. I used also a 12" long all thread rod with large washers as a spring compressor and a 4" piece of 1"x1" angle iron to help compress the helix.

 

 

 

Now, I have a spring compressor tool that costs about $45 which makes this job easier. But, I'll show you how I used that angle iron in just a bit. Lets begin by removing the belt with that handy dandy belt removal tool in your Skidoo tool pouch.

 

With that off, lets turn to the primary clutch first. To avoid pitfall #1, find a Sharpie marker. I'd like you to find the alignment marks on the primary clutch and highlight all three of these marks on the hub, the front plate, and most importantly, the back plate. That darn alignment mark on the back plate is a booger to spot if you don't know what you're looking for. This will help you put your clutch back together properly and in balance.

 

 

Next, I use a tie down to retain the primary clutch while I unscrew the bolt .....

 

With the bolt removed, here is where I stray from everyone else. I will not pop the whole clutch off here. There are two methods you can use in removing the primary clutch.

 

First, there is a special clutch removal bolt you can get from your dealer that will pop off the entire primary clutch assembly from the crank trunion. If you go this route, you will likely want to pour boiling hot water over the spindle between the two sheaves to loosen the trunion bond. Those things are really stuck on there and the hot water trick works. Once that removal bolt is tightly engaged, tap on it with a metal hammer as the shock will help free the bond. I will say my first attempt to do this (with out the water trick), I sheared the removal bolt off INSIDE my crank shaft. Now that's a nightmare.

 

So, to avoid that pitfall, the other way to remove the outer sheave is to take the head of a 3 lb rubber mallet and insert it between the sheaves. Then, pound on the handle of that mallet with another mallet and work the front sheave of the clutch off as shown here. It takes a fair amount of force. A few hits, then turn, a few more hits, than turn again .... etc..

 

 

 

 

 

Be patient here and it'll come off for ya.

 

With the front of the primary clutch removed, set 'er down on the work bench ....

 

 

... and by hand, separate the hub from the plate.

 

 

As those buttons are about to slide out of their sleeves, put in place your button retainers and separate the two clutch pieces ....

 

 

The first step in Joeys kit is to replace the stock primary clutch spring with his new replacement spring.

 

I take that all-threaded rod I have, screw a nut on the tip of one end and pinch the treads there so as to lock the nut in place. I then lock this end in a vise, drop on a large washer, place the front clutch plate on, add another large washer, and finally sandwich it all together with another nut. Make it snug, but not tight.

 

Then, I remove the three Allen head retaining screws and back off the large nut on my make-shift spring compressor that holds the spring hub in place.

 

 

Now, replace the stock spring with your new one and simply reverse the process by placing the new spring in position and re-compress the spring housing.

 

 

One very important note here - when reinstalling the spring hub, make sure your alignment mark on the housing lines up with the alignment mark you made earlier on your front sheave ...

 

 

When everything is compressed down and aligned properly, bolt back in place with your three Allen screws.

 

Now, don't remove this clutch piece yet! We've got to set your pin weights on those three rollers sitting there .....

 

 

The pin weight kit that Joey sent ya has a chart listed there with various pin/weight combinations. I would suggest setting your clutch up running 17 grams of pin weight (I think your kit allows like 17.3 grams or something close to that) on clicker 3 (the clickers I'm referring to are those bolts on the outside of the hub that you can adjust while out riding - you know - between 1 and 6). My suggested combos:

 

17 grams at clicker 3

19 grams at clicker 5

 

Anyway, on each of the three rollers, remove the cotter pin, replace the roller shaft with your new ones, install your fresh cotter pin, and add the threaded weight combination using lock tight on the last one in. I also clipped the ends down on the cotter pins a bit to minimize their exposure.

 

 

When that is completed, now go ahead and remove the clutch plate from your holder/compressor. Then, reinstall the hub into your front clutch plate making sure you line up your marks ...

 

 

With that done, we're moving on to the Secondary.

 

I have an '05 secondary here. If you have an '06 or '07 “roller” secondary, the helix design is different and you'll need to fabricate your own compressor tool or purchase a helix compressor tool for that type. The install is the same general concept however.

 

The secondary now goes onto your compression device with the helix facing up and the make shift angle iron piece positioned over the top like so ...

 

 

 

 

Actually, now that I think of it, I'd lay the flat side of that angle iron down against the helix - so that pic isn't exactly correct. I'm only showing it for those of you who don't want to spend the $ on the good tools. The spring compressor I have makes this job much easier ...

 

 

With the helix slightly compressed (about 6mm), you can slide out by hand two "half moon" retainer pieces and than relieve the spring tension on the helix.

 

 

Look at the difference in these two helix's. WOW!!! Which one do you think is Joeys?

 

 

Leave the stock spring in place along with the plastic pieces there. Also note that as you recompress Joey's helix back in place, about half way down you'll have to align the teeth of the inside spindle to those on the helix. A little futzy - but no big deal. DO NOT FORCE THE HELIX ALL THE WAY DOWN. If you don't understand what I mean, pre-fit the helix without the spring in place and you'll see what I'm saying about aligning the teeth mid way down.

 

Once you've put your retainer clips back in place, remove from your compressor and reinstall both clutch pieces back on your sled remembering that on your primary side to line up your front plate vs back plate alignment marks that you made ....

 

 

And here's a little tip that will help you remove your clutches much easier in the future. I lube the teeth only on both clutch spindles with some anti-seize grease to make it much easier to put on/off again in the future. Don't be sloppy with this stuff ...

 

 

Using this lube, I can now change the pin weight in a matter of minutes with the belt still on the sled.

 

Torque the primary bolt back on at 70 lbs and your secondary on at 19 lbs.

 

Now you're ready to ROCK!!!!!